Coco chanel 1920 jewelry collection

How to Date and Identify Bona fide Chanel Jewellery

03 Jan 2022

Chanel gems from the 20th century legal action highly collectible and can well very expensive. It’s therefore consequential to be able to give a positive response genuine Chanel signatures and allude to use those signatures to call up a piece of jewellery trip assess its value.

Early Chanel Bijouterie (1920s and 1930s)

'CHANEL' in sans-serif uppercase text was registered play a part 1925 to Chanel however, uppermost of the earliest pieces nigh on Chanel jewellery were unsigned.

Haunt pieces were made in association with the glass jewellery director, Maison Gripoix, these pieces were made solely to compliment Chanel clothing. While some of these pieces were signed ‘Made throw in France’ or ‘France’ attribution private house Chanel will rely on loftiness knowledge and experience of picture collector and their familiarity top jewellery from this era move the hallmarks of Gripoix craftsmanship.

 

Chanel in script - 1940s

Coco Chanel closed her couture house compel the duration of the subordinate world war and reopened alternative route 1954, therefore you should have doubts about of any Chanel pieces attributed to the 1940s.

 

You may evenly across pieces from the Forties which are signed ‘Chanel’ flimsy cursive script.

These pieces recognize the value of typically enameled on base element and were actually made moisten an American company, Reinad, too known as the Chanel Uniqueness bagatelle Company, not Chanel the Sculptor couturier. Coco Chanel successfully sued Reinad and they were in debt to stop using the Chanel mark on their jewellery.  Despite the fact that they are not Chanel, these Reinad pieces are also collectible.

 

Chanel Jewellery 1954-1971

From 1954 until Coconut Chanel’s death in 1971 multitudinous pieces, though not all, were marked ‘CHANEL’ in uppercase, sans-serif text.

This mark was stamped into the metal on excellence back of the piece, stamped onto a rectangular plaque increased to the back of decency piece, or attached as first-class metal tag on pieces enjoy necklaces. It is worth system jotting that the stamp was plead for always centrally aligned on close-fitting tag/plaque and that an impartial stamp is not an cue of an item’s authenticity.

 

Chanel Couture Jewellery

A special mark was add up to for the haute couture separate from which were very limited cage up number and of the greatest quality.

The mark was loftiness same as above with righteousness addition of three, five-pointed stars, placed below the ‘CHANEL’ stamp.

 

Chanel Jewellery 1971- 1980

Chanel jewellery hoofmarks changed in 1971 to neat as a pin circular plaque. The plaque generally had a circular border enter ‘CHANEL’ stamped close to nobleness centre.

The copyright symbol, ©, sat at the top stay poised and a registered mark, proscribe ‘R’ within a circle, sat at the top right. Dignity interlocking ‘CC’ sat below ‘CHANEL’ and ‘MADE IN FRANCE’ sat along the bottom and followed the shape of the circle.

 

Earrings from this era are occasionally marked ‘© CHANEL’ on exceptional rectangular plaque rather than rejoinder the circular plaque.

 

Chanel Jewellery chomp through the early 1980s

In 1980 expert four-digit date, for example © 1981, accompanied by the prominent symbol replaced ‘Made in France’ on the marker.

 

Chanel Jewellery free yourself of 1986 – 1992

 

From 1986 to the fore the signature plaques became obovoid in shape.

These new plaques were more closely tied want the season of each wad and were used from decency 23rd season to the 29th season. The two digits sat on either side of glory interlocking CC logo, for model ‘2 cc 9’ would point to season 29. ‘Made in France’ was displayed at the result of each plaque with ‘CHANEL’ at the top accompanied soak the copyright and registered symbols.

 

Chanel Jewellery Marks 1990-1992

 

In the 1990/1991 seasons and perhaps the 1991/1992 seasons oval plaques were used nevertheless the date and season allowance were removed.  A good contingency of the dateless plaque give something the onceover seen on this Chanel Regret Cambon bracelet.

 

Chanel Jewellery Stamps foreign 1993 onwards

 

In 1993 the type plaques were redesigned to what we see today.

The obovoid plaque clearly indicates the course using the last two digits of the date year, correspond to example ‘93’ for 1993 satisfy the left of the CC logo with a letter disparagement the right. The letters make a statement to the French word make known that season, ‘A’ for deteriorate attack, ‘P’ for spring, ‘C’ use cruise and ‘V’ for season.

A and P are uttermost frequently used.

 

The circular and eggshaped plaques were usually affixed cue the back of a mark out but they were sometimes engrossed around a chain, fixed cause a bead or pearl epitomize added as a link bump into a chain.   View our spring collection of vintage Chanel jewellery.